Review - by EDWARD BOEHM - JOEB Enterprises - Solana Beach, California
"See what Gems & Gemology - The Magazine of the Gemological Institute of America - has to say about The Gem Merchant"
The Gem Merchant: How to Be One, How to Deal with One, 2nd Edition
Gem merchant David Epstein acurately covers many of the details involved
in the daily practice of his profession. Every retail jeweler,
manufacturer, and gemologist should read this book in order to better
understand the responsibilities and risks gem merchants assume when
pursuing loose stones for their clients. Although there is valuable
advice for anyone considering a career in gemstone trading, Epstein
aptly states that this book was written more for jewelers and
manufactures.
The book is divide into four major sections: buying, marketing, cutting,
and general information. The discussion assumes a basic knowledge of
gemstones and the industry, and the author's warnings and advice should
deter those who are not willing to take tne necessary risks. This is,
after all, an industry that rewards the very few who have the endurance
and patience to accept the learning curve that comes only with time and
experience.
The book's first section focuses on buying and the need for product
education and experience to accurately determine quality and value.
Epstein also mentions the importance of keeping track of all purchases
and expenses. Principles of gemstone trading and valuation are
addressed, with tips on assessing such factors as cut, color, size, and
pricing. The illustrations are accurate and easy to understand. This
section also teaches the buyer to beware of supply and demand factors
that dictate price and to always remember that gem supplies are finite.
In one of the most important features of this chapter, Epstein gives
sound advice on how to travel safely, stay incognito, keep goods close,
use local assistants or contacts, and be aware of local trade customs.
The second section contains many useful strategies for successful
marketing and sales. The first and most important step is to develop and
write out a marketing plan. He explains the five steps of closing a sale
by including excellent examples o evaluating and developing a customer's “attention, interest, conviction, [and] disire”, and then closing the
sale. The section devoted to purchase control sheets and order forms
seems to focus more on Epstein's personal methods on inventory control
and management than on the general idea of record keeping and good
accounting practices. Epstein also gives sound advice on how to properly
use the Internet as a communication and sales tool.
Section three, titled “Cutting (Manufacturing),” starts out with a
strong waring to the uninitiated: Successfully buying and cutting rough takes practice, experience, and time. This section continues with
valuable information on how to grade and value rough gems properly. Once
again, the focus is on experience and exercising caution when venturing
into the evaluation of rough. He addresses many of the basic tips that
wholesalers apply by providing some useful examples and illustrations.
This section ends with recutting (poorly cut, damaged, or worn gems) and
contract cutting. In my opinion, however, these topics should have been
featured at the beginning, since they are skills that one should acquire
before cutting from rough.
The final section addresses general topics and is full of excelent
advice. One of the best is the suggestion that one rely on comparison
stones when buying gems for which subtle differences in color are
important. Since even highly trained graders have lapses in color
memory, comparison stones can help the gem dealer avoid costly mistakes. Epstein also describes the ideal color range of some of the most
commonly traded gems. This section continues with illuminating examples
of shams, scams, and rip-offs, as well as what one should look for in a
reliable and trustworthy gem merchant. The major international gem
trading centers are also briefly described and put into context by
tracing their historical development and significance. My favorite part
in this final section, however, is the author's historical analysis of
the gem trade. In it, he addresses the conflicting views associated with
gemstone grading, past and present economic trends, the fragmentation of
the colored stone industry, advances in shipping and trasportation,
exploration breakthroughs, and gem prices and profit margins. Epstein
concludes by predicting that, because of greater competition, the gem
industry will become more specialized as gem merchants are forced to
focus on particular areas of expertise. These merchants will have to
take advantage of innovations and use them to their advantage to compete
in the rapidly changing marketplace.
More Reviews 